Sunday, December 6, 2009

Sub tt form a MIXTURE

An ingredient is a substance that forms part of a mixture...........

Maybe I am thinking too much but have you ever wonder what is the ingredients that made up the products used in manicure and pedicure


1) Nail Polish remover
Used to remove nail poilsh and grease from the nail plate prior to applying polish.

A nail polish remover is formulated from a combination of solvents derived from naturally occurring materials, which combination consists essentially of a (i) a major proportion by weight (“by wt”) of esters of fatty acids having from 16 to 18 carbon atoms wherein the content of linoleic acid ester in the source vegetable oil is less than 60%, and (ii) a minor proportion by weight of a lower (C1–C5) alkyl lactate. The nail polish remover is highly effective yet has good skin conditioning properties, is non-toxic and non-flammable. A visible residue several micrometers thick provides a desirable gloss on the cleaned nails unless it is washed off.

- Acetone or ethyl acetate


Acetone is the organic compound with the formula OC(CH3)2. This colorless, mobile, flammable liquid is the simplest example of the ketones. Owing to the fact that acetone is miscible with water it serves as an important solvent in its own right, typically as the solvent of choice for cleaning purposes

- Perfume
- Colour
- Oil


2) Hand Lotion/ Oil
Used to soften the skin and cuticles and provide slip during hand massage

- Vegetable oil (Almond Oil)
Sweet Almond oil is one of the most popular vegetable oils, which is also used in the form of carrier oil. Texture wise, the oil extracted from the seeds of Almond, is a bit oily. The botanical name of Almond is Prunus amygdalus var. dulcus. Sweet Almond has a very light, sweet and nutty aroma. It is absolutely clear in color with a tinge of yellow.

Benefits of Almond Oil

a) Almond oil is believed to improve complexion and add glow to even dull skin.
b) It improves the movement of food through the colon.
c) Regular intake of almond oil is said to reduce cholesterol.
d)It acts as a nutritive for brain and nervous system.
e) It is considered to encourage high intellectual level and longevity.
f) For massage and internal consumption, almond oil is regarded as a nutritive aphrodisiac.
g) It improves the immune system of the body.
h) To restore lost moisture in skin, almond oil is the best medication.
i) Due to its lubrication property, it helps in fighting itching and inflammation.
It is suitable for all skin types and acts as a natural moisturizer.
Application of sweet almond oil provides an instant relief from problems such as muscle pain.

- Perfume

- Emulsifying agents (besswax or gum tragacanth)


Lotion are made by combining oil-based and water-based ingredients, and are therefore the only skin care applications that have at the same time moisturising and nourishing effects. The water (or water-based ingredients) supply the "moisturising" properties, and the oils or fats the "nourishing" properties.

Technically, lotions are emulsions. In an emulsion, tiny droplets of one of the liquids are suspended in a second liquid, which would not "naturally" mix with the first. This is the case with water and oils: it is always possible to mix together water and oil, but unless something is done to create an emulsion, the oils (which are lighter than water) will always sit on top of the water and not "blend" with it.
This physical incompatibility of water and oils can be overcome by agitating the water and oil mix. Agitation disperses the molecules, and generates an emulsion. However, emulsions made by simply agitating water and oil will separate within a short time, with the water part falling to the bottom, and the oils floating on top.
The only way to obtain a stable emulsion is to add an emulsifying agent to the mix.

- Emollients (glycerine or Lanoloin)
Emollients are substances that soften and soothe the skin. They are used to correct dryness and scaling of the skin.
 
- Preservatives


3) Nail bleach
Used to whiten stained nails and the surrounding skin

- Citric acid or hydrogen peroxide
a bleaching composition is applied to the skin or nails to be bleached or lightened

- Glycerine
Glycerin acts to moisturize the nails and cuticles
- Water


4) Nail Polish
Used to colour nail plates and provide some protection



A nail polish is made from 92% to 96% ingredients including a film former, colorant, plasticizer and solvent; and 4% to 8% polyester resin made from 2,2,4-trimethyl-1, 3-pentanediol, isophthalic acid-85, and trimellitic anhydride, having an acid value of 75-85 and a viscosity of 125-175 centipoise. In another example, the polyester is made from 50.932% 2,2,4 trimethyl-1, 3-pentanediol, 27.579% isophthalic acid-85, 0.186% dibutyl tin oxide catalyst and 21.303 trimellitic anhydride, having an acid value of 80 and a viscosity of 150 centipoise.

- Formaldehyde
Is a harden agents for nail but Formaldehyde is toxin as it is a carcinogen and a common indoor air pollutant because its resins are used in many construction materials. Formaldehyde has caused cancer in the nose and throats of lab animals. Inhaling the fumes can result in watery eyes, headache, burning in the throat, and labored breathing.
- Solvent
Drying agents
 
- Colour pigmentation

- Resin
Is the glue that joint the pigmentation together

- Toluene
Is the drying agent a clear, colourless liquid used to make products such as dyes, paints, paint thinners and explosives. Solvents such as toluene, which give nail polish its fluid quality and improve drying time, absorb easily through the skin or through inhalation. Toluene is a hydrocarbon (C7H8) that’s found in crude oil and is produced during the manufacture of gasoline and other fuels. It can affect the nervous system, causing depression, headaches, nausea and feelings of intoxication. Low to moderate levels of exposure can cause symptoms from tiredness to loss of hearing and colour vision.

- Plasticisers
An ingredient in nail polish to make it chip resistant

- Pearlised particles
Micas (tiny reflective minerals), also used in lipsticks, are a common additive, as is "pearl" or "fish scale" essence. "Pearl" or "guanine" is literally made from small fish scales and skin, suitably cleaned, and mixed with solvents such as castor oil and butyl acetate. The guanine can also be mixed with gold, silver, and bronze tones.


5) Cuticle cream
Used to soften the cuticles

- Emollients (glycerine or Lanoloin)
- Perfume
- Colour


6) Cuticle Oil
Used to condition the nail and surrounding skin

-Oil such as lanolin


7) Nail Strengthener
Used to harden soft nails but not good in long run

- Formaldehyde


8) Cuticle remover
Used to soften dead cuticles

- Potassium hydroxide
- Glycerine



Cuticle remover contain two of the most common ingredients Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide. They are both very alkaline (have a high ph) and caustic. These ingredients work by softening and breaking down the dead skin around the nail so that it can be removed gently with a nail knife or orange-wood stick.

Both ingredients can cause irritations and dryness if left on the skin for too long, so it’s important to wash your hands well and thoroughly after using products that contain them. In addition, they are poisonous when ingested so keep them away from small children.

A milder option
Products with Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide are pretty harsh and aggressive, so if you prefer a more gentle alternative, you can get one of the many cuticle removers on the market that use Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) instead. This is a group of substances derived from plants or milk that act as exfoliants. They break down the glue-like substance that hold skin cells together so that they can be easily pushed away. Although milder than Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide, AHAs can cause irritations too especially in people with sensitive skin.



9) Buffing paste
Used to shine the nail plate (used with a buffer)

- Perfume
- Colour
- Abrasive particles (pumice, talc or silica)


10) Nail Polish drier
Used to increase the speed at which the nail polish hardens (Note that it only set the top layer & might give a pre mature chipping. Also come in Quick Dry Spray

- Mineral Oil
- Oleric acid or Sillicone

Do you know that.........
Dipping your nails in a bowl of ice water will make your nail polish dry more quickly. You'll only need to keep your nails in the water for about 30 seconds. The cold temperature will quickly set the polish.




11) Nail Polish Solvent
Used to thin nail polish that has thickens

- Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate (systematically, ethyl ethanoate, commonly abbreviated EtOAc or EA) is the organic compound with the formula CH3COOCH2CH3. This colorless liquid has a characteristic sweet smell (similar to pear drops) like certain glues or nail polish removers, in which it is used. Ethyl acetate is the ester of ethanol and acetic acid; it is manufactured on a large scale for use as a solvent.

- Toluene

12) Exfoliating scrub
Used to remove dead skin cells, cleanse the skin, condition soften and refreah kin, improving blood circulation in the area

- Abrasive ingredients such pumice, sea salt, detergent, water and water soluble ingredients added moisturisers, refreshing agents eg peppermint oil.

Blogging put away the fact that my boss is back tommorow so Eveyone out there

PLS
PLS
PLS
PLS
PLS

WISH ME LUCK : ((

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Nail Anatomy

I never thought that even a simple nail can be so complicated



Above is the simplest Nail Diagram I could find for illustration purpose, I will also share the more complex diagram below:

I always have an impression that fingernail is made out of calcium but is actually made of keratin (amino acid) that has 2 purposes. The fingernail acts as a protective plate and enhances sensation of the fingertip. The protection function of the fingernail is commonly known, but the sensation function is equally important. The fingertip has many nerve endings in it allowing us to receive volumes of information about objects we touch. The nail acts as a counter force to the fingertip providing even more sensory input when an object is touched.

Nail Growth
Nails grow all the time, but their rates of growth depend on:
1) Health
2) Age: The older you are the slower the nail grow
3) Diet
4) Medication
5) Climate: Do you know that our nails grow faster in hot weather?
6) Damage: Damage to the matrix can result to permanent deformities
7) Lifestyle
8) Gender
9) Pregnancy: Nails grow faster in the 4th to 8th trimester.
10) Water & Chemical

Fingernails grow faster than toenails at a rate of 3mm per month. It takes 6 months for a nail to grow from the matrix to the free edge. Toenails grow about 1 mm per month and take 12-18 months to be completely replaced.

Nail Structure
1) The root
The root of the fingernail is also known as the germinal matrix. This portion of the nail is actually beneath the skin behind the fingernail and extends several millimeters into the finger. The fingernail root produces most of the volume of the nail and the nail bed. This portion of the nail does not have any melanocytes, or melanin producing cells. The edge of the germinal matrix is seen as a white, crescent shaped structure called the lunula.


2) Nail bed
This is the part of the finger underneath the nail plate. The nail bed is part of the nail matrix called the sterile matrix. It extends from the edge of the germinal matrix, or lunula, to the hyponychium. The nail bed contains the blood vessels, nerves, and melanocytes, or melanin-producing cells. As the nail is produced by the root, it streams down along the nail bed, which adds material to the undersurface of the nail making it thicker. It is important for normal nail growth that the nail bed be smooth. If it is not, the nail may split or develop grooves that can be cosmetically unappealing.

3) Nail plate
This is the visible portion of the nail that sits on top of the nail bed. The growth of nails from Lunala is opaque; it will become white & turn colorless eventually. The change of living cells to hard, dead cells, and it consists of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen.
The nail plate is the actual fingernail, made of translucent keratin. The pink appearance of the nail comes from the blood vessels & oxygen underneath the nail. There are 2 main blood vessels underneath the nail; one is to carry food and oxygen and the other is to clean up the cell by carrying out the toxin. The underneath surface of the nail plate has grooves along the length of the nail that help anchor it to the nail bed.

4) Matrix
This is where the nail is made. It is the only living part of the nail, and contains nerves and blood vessels so that cell reproduction can occur. The size and shape of the matrix determine the thickness, width and cleverage of the nails therefore the thicker the matrix is the longer the nail plates are.
5) Nail Wall
Lateral (side) of nail. These are the protective skin where the nail is still attached.

6) Nail Groove
These are the grooves on the skin at the sides of the free edge, and the nail follows the line as it grows.

7) Cuticle
This is the overlapping skin surrounding the nail. Its job is to protect the matrix from invading bacteria and physical damage.

8) Free Edge
The Distal (far) end of the nail plate that is shaped during Manicure & Pedicure. The shade is given by the lunula.

9) Lunala
Lunula is visible part of the matrix that determine the shape of the nail Milky white color moon

10) Mantle
Mantle is a deep fold of skin at the base of the nail before the cuticle. Covering the matrix

11) Eponychium (Living tissue)
Eponychium is situated between the skin of the finger and the nail plate fusing these structures together and providing a waterproof barrier. In simple term, cuticle of the base of the nail. There is a sticky residue in between the Eponychium and the cuticle

12) Perionychium
The perioncyhium is the skin that overlies the nail plate on its sides. It is also known as the paronychial edge.The perionychium is the site of hangnails, ingrown nails, and an infection of the skin called paronychia.

13) Hyponychium.
The hyponychium is the area between the nail plate and the fingertip. It is the junction between the free edge of the nail and the skin of the fingertip, also providing a waterproof barrier. It provides the toughest protection with tight stal.

Each of these structures has a specific function, and if disrupted can result in an abnormal appearing fingernail.

Nails are normally pink therefore blue nails are cause by:
1) Injury to the nail plate
2) Injury to the Matrix
3) Poor Circulation
4) Increase Circulation
eg: Heart attack
Lung disease
Liver disease

Here are more nail images thanks to goggle hehe : ))









With such a complex structure, nail care will be my ultimate mission for the next upload……..

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

3 Strange Equipments



I am not sure about you but these 3 equipments do look very foreign to me.

Orange Stick


Cuticle Knife


Cuticle Nipper


Orange Stick

A stick of orangewood with tapered ends, used in manicuring
Orange sticks are used to push back cuticles, which is an important step in manicures
Yesterday was the 1st time I get my cuticles push back by these orange sticks, honestly I felt that there is so significant different except that my nail look longer.

SOO How on earth do you push your cuticles back using an orange stick:
The orange stick tapered end is to be wrap with very thin layer of cotton wool
Cotton- wrapped orange stick must be dip in water first for every nail
Gently push back the cuticle at 45 degree with a cotton-wrapped orange stick, slowly in circular motion




Cuticle Knife

The U/V-shaped blade cuts cuticles and the rounded blades push back cuticles.
Cuticle knife is used to properly manipulate the cuticle and remove any dead skin or cuticles properly. The main purpose of the cuticle knife is as its name suggests, is to remove any dead cuticle or skin that is still attached to the nail. It is made to actually carve the cuticle out so that the cut is clean and looks natural while also cutting any dead skin at the tip of the cuticle that can’t be removed by nail cutters.

Below are simple steps that I took about half an hour to master using the Cuticle knife:
Wetting cuticle sides before starting is very important to avoid any injury.
Placed the U/V shaped blade cuts cuticle on the cuticle side & gently move in circular inward.
Repeat the motion on both sides of the cuticle

Cuticle Nipper
Cuticle nippers are to trim and tidy cuticles and remove any dead skin from the top of the nail plate. Cuticle nippers aren’t exactly the most common tools when it comes to manicures. It isn’t vitally necessary however would make manipulating and shaping cuticles much easier instead of relying on nail cutters and cuticle knives to do the job. Cuticle nippers are essentially small cutters that look very similar to tweezers but with a cutting element on the end. The main purpose of these instruments is to fill in the gap between nail cutters and cuticle knives where thicker cuticles or dead skin can’t be easily cut by the knife or the nail cutters.

Keep a look out on my other bizarre but fascinating equipments encounter!!!

Friday, November 27, 2009

Pamper urself w a MANICURE

Happy Holiday Everyone : )) "Festival of Sacrifice" is celebrated by Muslims worldwide to commemorate the willingness of Ibrahim to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God. A day one ponder of the sacrifices made to be a better Muslim, children, sibling, spouse and a friend.

With that I am sharing some pictures taken of mosques around the world:

















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Have you ever wonder what they actually do when you pamper yourself with a manicure?
1) Removal of any nail polish (From the small finger to the thumb)
Nail polish is set by evaporation therefore to remove one, we need to soak cotton wool with nail polish remover and placed it about 10 second on the nail before wiping it off'

2) Place a piece of tissue paper below the hand

3) Filing
Brown (Manicure)
White (Pedicure)
3a) Discuss client's requirement of filing shape.
3b) Hold the filer correctly (4 fingers in front & the thumb behind, as shown below)




3c) The filer should be 45 degree to the nail & filed in one direction with long stokes/ sounds.



3d) Filing is done toward the end of the nail via the two side first before moving to the center section of the nail.
3e) For a good filing, one must be able to demonstrate correct beveling technique, filling technique and able to hold client's finger correctly .

4) Massage & Soak
4a) Cotton bub is soak with sweet almond oil & place on the cuticle from small finger to thumb.
4b) Massage in circular motion using the thumb.

5) Dab dry with towel
6) Apply cuticle cream & massage

7) Orange Stick wrap with cotton wool.
7a) Dip with water
7b) Push in circular motion at 45 degree on the nail

8) Use of Cuticle knife
9) Use of Cuticle Nipper
10) Massage
11) Dab the hand with tissue

12) Vanishing
12a) Base Coat
12b) 1st Coat
12c) 2nd Coat
12d) Top Coat

Correct handling of product, appearance, client care, hygiene and proper sterilization are important for any
Good Manicure!!!

Saturday, November 21, 2009

HaLloWeEn CaMe lAtE

Pedicure and Medicure, Me? What a total mismatch!!!

The whole 3 hours was all about varnish and  finishing result:
a) Squeak the nails
b) Application of base coat

c) Application of 2 coats of colored varnish

Simple steps of colour varnish application are :
c1) Ensure the colored varnish form a ball from the bottle
c2) Place the ball 2 or 3mm from the cuticle on the middle of the nail .
c3) Spread the brush
c4) Push the brush up and away
c5) Repeat the same steps for the 2 sides of the nail

d) Application of top coat
e) Only 3 stokes per nail
f) The gap between cuticle & varnish must be 2 to 3 mm away
g) Vanish must be applied smoothly and evenly
h) No evidence of flooding
i) The finger must be correctly supported
j) The product must be correctly handled
k) The finished result must be commercially acceptable

which I failed terribly that when my class mate look at my nails they said it's like Halloween.
This is going to be a long long road for me......... ACHA-ACHA!!!

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Recommendation PLS!!!!

I finally found the book "Six Thinking Hats" by Edward de Bono. Recommended by Donald Trump in his interview with Forbes, "Secret of a self made 2009" Edward de Bono's Six Thinking Hats is the latest book that he read. He quoted that the book thoroughly covers the process of thinking, and it's a way to avoid blind spots if you are thinking alone. He coined the expression "lateral thinking," and this book provides a comprehensive approach to using your brain in an efficient and effective way. Wow with that I can't wait to get started.
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The last facial theory is all about revision and more revision.
In summary:
Day home product recommendation is all about practicality and protection
whereas
Night home product should be nourishing to the skin.

In the day all you need is
1) Hydrating or Anti sensitive cleanser
2)  Hydrating or Anti sensitive toner
3) Hydrating or Anti sensitive Day Cream with SPF 15
Hydrating product can be used for all type of skin but for an individual with sensitive area on the skin an anti sensitive product are much better choices.

At Night,
Different product can be use on the face to target on dissimilar problems especially for combination skin:

1) Hydrating or Anti sensitive cleanser
2) Hydrating or Anti sensitive toner
3) Hydrating anti dark eye / eye bag gel (below 40) or cream (above 40)

4)
# Purifying night cream/ serum for oily area of the skin
# Hydrating cream/ serum for dehydrated area of the skin
# Anti sensitive cream/ serum for sensitive area of the skin (below 40)
# Intensive moisturizing cream/ serum for sensitive area of the skin  (above 40)

5) Mask is to be used only once a week.
# Purifying mask for oily area of the skin
# Hydrating mask for dehydrated area of the skin
# Anti sensitive mask for sensitive area of the skin (below 40)
# Intensive moisturizing mask for sensitive area of the skin (above 40)

6)Scrub is to be used only once a week.
Hydrating or Anti sensitive Scrub

WE ARE DONE yaaaaa!!!!

Moving on Pedicure & Manicure. It will be an interesting outcome coming from a person who has never get her nail done : ))

Saturday, November 14, 2009

If I am 28

It's the weekend finally. Today is all about product recommendation
Imagine a 28 year old girl with combination skin (oily t- zone & sensitive cheek)
sooooooo What product should she be using at home?
1) Cleanser/ Toner & Day moisturize with SPF: An anti sensitive product of course!!!!!(due to the water base component) A purifying product is a big no- no for such skin type as it will aggravate the sensitive condition.
2) Night product or better known as treatment product are:
a) Purifying night cream for the T-zone & Anti sensitive night cream for the cheek
b) As she is just 28, an anti dark eye circle & hydrating gel/ cream/ serum should be used. For more mature ladies, eye cream (Rich) is more suitable.
c) A hydrating night cream or gel should be used for the neck area. An intensive moisturizing night cream should be used on mature skin instead.
d) A purifying mask is to be used on the T- zone & anti dark circle eye mask
e) A motorizing with vitamin E anti- sensitive scrub is appropriate than a peel (stronger). It can also be used once a week.

Have you ever wonder what ingredients are mix in your clay mask at a spa parlor?
1) Oily Skin: Kaolin with Orange flower water (Can be used for sensitive skin) / Witchhazel (More stronger due to the alcohol content)
2)Sensitive Skin: Calamine mask with rose water
3) Dry, Dehydrating & normal skin: magnesium carbonate with rose water

Rose water is an active lotion for all skin type except oily skin & orange flower water is for oily skin only.

For a sleeping queen like me, this blog is really the only motivation for me to stay awake now. so hopefully you are enjoying this as much as i zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.......