Sunday, November 8, 2009

More than a Simple Facial

Its the weekend & here I am picking up from where we left

Combination skin.......
For Combination Skin, we have to look in 6 different areas of the face
1) Forehead
2) Nose
3) Chin
4) Cheek
5) Eyes (Dark Circle, Line)
6) Neck (Fine Line & shaggy)
Same analyses of pores, skin texture, skin tone & muscle tone apply but to be separately look at for each area.

Quick recap of any standard facial process:
1) Cleanser
2) Toner
3) Scrub/ Enzyme Peel
4) Extraction
5) Ampules/ Serum
6)Massage cream/ Oil
7) Mask

& so 2nd in the list is our humble toner (To be use after every cleanser):
a) Provide a cooling effect to the skin due to the evaporation effect
b) Create a tightening effect on the skin because the chemical within the toner called an astringent cause the pores to close reducing the flow of sebum and sweat onto the skin surface
c) Help to restore the acidic ph balance

Likewise there is also more than 1 type of toner
a) Purifying toner: For oily skin
b) Hydrating Toner: For all type of skin
c) Anti sensitive Toner: For sensitive skin
d) Intensive moistoring Toner: Just for Dry skin & a no- no for our young delicate dehydrated skin as it will be too rich.

The main different of toners are differentiated by the amount of alcohol they contain:
a) Bracers & fresheners: The mildest which contain no alcohol & mainly purified water with floral extract (rose water) for dry, delicate, sensitive & mature skin
b) Tonics: Slightly stronger which contain very small amount of astringent (witchhazel) for normal skin
c) Astringents: The strongest with high proportion of alchol and may contain antiseptic ingredients such as hexachlorophener for blemished skin and promoting skin healing. This is recommended for oily skin with no sensitivity & mild acne young skin.

Enzyme peel or exfoliation is necessary during all facial to remove dead skin and soften one skin. A scrub effect is not as strong as a peel and just for your info our skin take about 28 days to renew themselves.

The 3 types of peel are:
1) AHA, BHA, TCA: These are fruit acid peel, the most strongest & most effective peels that will cause redness & skin to peel off after used. 20% is the most recommended
2) Enzyme peel: The most mild & popular peel
3) Lactic peel: A mild milk base peel.

EXTRACTION the most dreadful period of any facial visit : ((
Do you know that after every extraction done, a Cotton wool soak with antiseptics, sterilizing lotion soften or toner need to be use?

With all the cleaning & scrubbing..........OVER

Here come the moisturising parts:
The use of ampules or serum via manual or machine which used 95% ultrasound to penetrate into deeper skin layer. The ampules are categorize the same way as toners purifying, hydrating and etc.

A face & shoulder massage is also given to
a) loosen and shed dead epidermal cells for the skin to appear fresh & young
b) Improve supply of oxygenated blood essential for cell growth (firming & facial contour)
c) Increasing blood circulation to induces relaxation & treat tense muscles
d) Improving blood colour
e) Purify the skin by lymphatic circulation and venous blood circulation
f) Increase temperature of skin to relax the pores and follicles that in turn aid absorption
g) Sensory nerves can be soothed or stimulated
h) Increase the production of skin natural oil and moisture balance
That explain why we limit massaging oily skin to 5 min only (others type of skin: 10 to 15 min)

The 6 types of massage are:
1) Elleurage better known as Swedish message
2) Petrissage
3) Percussion/ Tapotement
4) Vibrations
5) Fiction
6) Knitting

Last but not least: Masking
There is 2 types of mask
1) Setting
2) Non setting

Setting mask come in:
a) Clay packs
b) Peel off mask
c) Thermal mask

Clay mask absorbs sebum and debris leaving it cleansed. It can also stimulate or soothe skin according to the ingredients:
a) Calamine: Light pink powder which soothes surface blood capilaries for sensitive and delicate skin
b) Magnesium Carbonate: Light white powder which create a temporary astringent and toning effect for open pores on dry and normal skin
c) Kaolin: A commonly used cream colour powder which has very stimulating effect helping the skin to remove impurities and waste products used for congested and greasy skin.
d) Fuller's Earth: Green, Heavy clay powder with very stimulating effect such that the skin will show slight reddening & produces a whitening, brightening effect. Only used on greasy skin with sluggish circulation but a no- no for sensitive skin.
f) Flowers of sulphur: Yellow clay powder which has dying effect to be apply only on blemishes.

To activate these masks it is necessary to add liquid (active lotion)
a) Rose water and orange flower water: For a very mild stimulating and toning effect
b) Witchhazel: Soothing effect on blemished skin and use on greasy skin.
c) Distilled water: Used for highly sensitive skins
d) Almond oil: Mildly stimulating & because it is an oil, it does not allow the mask to dry therefore recommended for highly sensitive or dehydrated skin.
e) Glycerol: A humectant which prevents the mask drying suitable for dry & mature skin
f) Vitamin E: Oil base (Avocado is high in vitamin E)

I am not sure about you but this is all I can handle for the weekend. So logging out now.......

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