Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Mask, Mask & more Mask

All done with the clay mask here come the rest….
Peel off mask: made from gel, latex or paraffin wax. This mask insulates the skin causing an increase of the temperature

a) Gel peel off mask: Is it make out of biological ingredients (starches, gums or gelatin) or synthetic non- biological ingredients. The mask can be use for all types of skin but not advisable for excessive facial hair individual as the mask peel off upon drying. To avoid the discomfort on removal a lubricant should be place under the mask.
b) Latex peel off mask: An emulsion of latex and water. As the water evaporates, it will leave a rubber film over the face. More suitable for mature & dry skin due to the tightening effect.
c) Paraffin Wax peel off mask: Blend of petroleum jelly or acetyl alcohol which improves its spreading properties. The wax is heated up to 37c before applying to the skin. Due to its stimulating action, it is unsuitable for greasy skin or sensitive skin but recommended for Dry Skin instead

Thermal mask contain various minerals. The mask warms upon contact with the skin will cause pores to enlarge thereby cleaning the skin. Due to its stimulating & cleaning action, this mask is suitable for normal skin or congested greasy skin with open pores

NON SETTING MASK. The ones that stay soft on application include:

a) Warm oil: Is made out of plant oil (Olive oil or almond oil). Is warmed before application and aid in softening the skin and helps to restore the skin natural moisture balance.
b) Natural masks- fruit, plant and herbal: Mildly astringent and stimulating effect rich with natural vitamin & minerals
c) Cream: the mask have a softening and moisturizing effect to the skin as each mask contain various biological extracts or chemical substances to treat different skin types

Do you know, Honey, Egg white, Avocados & Banana can be use as natural masks?
1) Honey: For toning, tightening, antiseptic and hydrating effect
2) Egg White: For tightening & clearing impurities from the skin
3) Avocados: For nourishing effect
4) Bananas: For softening effect

For all face mask application, we must observe several contra- indications which allergies, claustrophobia & sensitive skins

A good beautician is able to provide product recommendations to any skin types & this is something I am looking forward to learn in my next lesson….

Sunday, November 8, 2009

More than a Simple Facial

Its the weekend & here I am picking up from where we left

Combination skin.......
For Combination Skin, we have to look in 6 different areas of the face
1) Forehead
2) Nose
3) Chin
4) Cheek
5) Eyes (Dark Circle, Line)
6) Neck (Fine Line & shaggy)
Same analyses of pores, skin texture, skin tone & muscle tone apply but to be separately look at for each area.

Quick recap of any standard facial process:
1) Cleanser
2) Toner
3) Scrub/ Enzyme Peel
4) Extraction
5) Ampules/ Serum
6)Massage cream/ Oil
7) Mask

& so 2nd in the list is our humble toner (To be use after every cleanser):
a) Provide a cooling effect to the skin due to the evaporation effect
b) Create a tightening effect on the skin because the chemical within the toner called an astringent cause the pores to close reducing the flow of sebum and sweat onto the skin surface
c) Help to restore the acidic ph balance

Likewise there is also more than 1 type of toner
a) Purifying toner: For oily skin
b) Hydrating Toner: For all type of skin
c) Anti sensitive Toner: For sensitive skin
d) Intensive moistoring Toner: Just for Dry skin & a no- no for our young delicate dehydrated skin as it will be too rich.

The main different of toners are differentiated by the amount of alcohol they contain:
a) Bracers & fresheners: The mildest which contain no alcohol & mainly purified water with floral extract (rose water) for dry, delicate, sensitive & mature skin
b) Tonics: Slightly stronger which contain very small amount of astringent (witchhazel) for normal skin
c) Astringents: The strongest with high proportion of alchol and may contain antiseptic ingredients such as hexachlorophener for blemished skin and promoting skin healing. This is recommended for oily skin with no sensitivity & mild acne young skin.

Enzyme peel or exfoliation is necessary during all facial to remove dead skin and soften one skin. A scrub effect is not as strong as a peel and just for your info our skin take about 28 days to renew themselves.

The 3 types of peel are:
1) AHA, BHA, TCA: These are fruit acid peel, the most strongest & most effective peels that will cause redness & skin to peel off after used. 20% is the most recommended
2) Enzyme peel: The most mild & popular peel
3) Lactic peel: A mild milk base peel.

EXTRACTION the most dreadful period of any facial visit : ((
Do you know that after every extraction done, a Cotton wool soak with antiseptics, sterilizing lotion soften or toner need to be use?

With all the cleaning & scrubbing..........OVER

Here come the moisturising parts:
The use of ampules or serum via manual or machine which used 95% ultrasound to penetrate into deeper skin layer. The ampules are categorize the same way as toners purifying, hydrating and etc.

A face & shoulder massage is also given to
a) loosen and shed dead epidermal cells for the skin to appear fresh & young
b) Improve supply of oxygenated blood essential for cell growth (firming & facial contour)
c) Increasing blood circulation to induces relaxation & treat tense muscles
d) Improving blood colour
e) Purify the skin by lymphatic circulation and venous blood circulation
f) Increase temperature of skin to relax the pores and follicles that in turn aid absorption
g) Sensory nerves can be soothed or stimulated
h) Increase the production of skin natural oil and moisture balance
That explain why we limit massaging oily skin to 5 min only (others type of skin: 10 to 15 min)

The 6 types of massage are:
1) Elleurage better known as Swedish message
2) Petrissage
3) Percussion/ Tapotement
4) Vibrations
5) Fiction
6) Knitting

Last but not least: Masking
There is 2 types of mask
1) Setting
2) Non setting

Setting mask come in:
a) Clay packs
b) Peel off mask
c) Thermal mask

Clay mask absorbs sebum and debris leaving it cleansed. It can also stimulate or soothe skin according to the ingredients:
a) Calamine: Light pink powder which soothes surface blood capilaries for sensitive and delicate skin
b) Magnesium Carbonate: Light white powder which create a temporary astringent and toning effect for open pores on dry and normal skin
c) Kaolin: A commonly used cream colour powder which has very stimulating effect helping the skin to remove impurities and waste products used for congested and greasy skin.
d) Fuller's Earth: Green, Heavy clay powder with very stimulating effect such that the skin will show slight reddening & produces a whitening, brightening effect. Only used on greasy skin with sluggish circulation but a no- no for sensitive skin.
f) Flowers of sulphur: Yellow clay powder which has dying effect to be apply only on blemishes.

To activate these masks it is necessary to add liquid (active lotion)
a) Rose water and orange flower water: For a very mild stimulating and toning effect
b) Witchhazel: Soothing effect on blemished skin and use on greasy skin.
c) Distilled water: Used for highly sensitive skins
d) Almond oil: Mildly stimulating & because it is an oil, it does not allow the mask to dry therefore recommended for highly sensitive or dehydrated skin.
e) Glycerol: A humectant which prevents the mask drying suitable for dry & mature skin
f) Vitamin E: Oil base (Avocado is high in vitamin E)

I am not sure about you but this is all I can handle for the weekend. So logging out now.......

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Wat Ur Skin type???

Finally with the help of my charming hubby & lovely sis, I am starting my blogging journey. Hopefully with all the posting I intended to writte after every lessons help me in one way or another with my grades & also served as a sharing session of what I called a "Beauty Antidote"

My 1st class started off with the standard facial treatment process. It covers the reception area which are used to provide consultation, checking contraindication condition (condition that the client is not allow for any treatments) which i do not see much of that in the market......., treatment proposed and cost (for every budget, a very important point to remember)

Next stop is the preparation area which intended to make the client feel at ease. Changing area, treatment robe, towel & a locker is an essential.

The basic facial products preparation requires:
a) Cleanser
b) Toner
c) Enzyme peel/ Scrub
d) Extraction
e) Ampules/ Serum
f) Massage cream/ Oil
g) Mask

Do you know that there is more than one type of cleanser? Each cleanser is used for a different purpose
a) Cleansing cream,
It is one of the most powerful oil based cleanser used to remove make up and more suitable for dry skin
b) Cleansing milk,
More water based with very little oil content cleanser suitable for all skins. It can also be use as an alternative from cleansing cream to remove make up
c) Cleaning Gel,
Suitable for oily skin as the oil content is near zero
d) Cleaning Oil,
Do not be fool by the name, the oil is actually water based which liquefied when come in contact with water . It's usually used on sensitive skin & can be very expensive
e) Cleaning Mousse,
It's a no- no for oily skin but can be use for other skin types

Our skin type are usually categorised as
a) Normal
b) Combination
c) Sensitive
d) Oily
e) Dehydrated
f) Dry

& beautician analyse different type of skin by 4 areas:
1) Pores,
Enlarge or Refine, Congested with pimple, comedone ( Just a Fancy name for blackhead) & milia (guess what is mean???? WHITE HEAD)
2) Skin texture
Testing is done by using your 2nd & 3rd finger, smooth or rough
3) Skin Tone/ Colour
Even/ Uneven, scarring due to pimple, pigmentation & redness
4) Muscle tone
Elasticity check. Testing is done below the chin area (Good, average, shaggy/ ageing or double chin)

Normal skin will have refine pore, smooth skin texture without fine line or wrinkle, even skin tone with no pigmentation & firm muscle tone. (Every ladies dream skin)

Oily Skin, a condition 99% of Singaporean is diagnosed with due to our humid weather. Enlarged pore with congestion of pimple, comedone, milia, uneven skin tone with average muscle tone.

Dehydrated skin is usually wrongly associated with dry skin.This perception is totally wrong as dehydrated skin is a condition only for the younger age group (below 30). The condition can be temporary due to harsh product usage, sun tanning, smoking & drinking. A water based hydrating product should be introduce to restore the skin. The skin usually have refine pores, rough texture, uneven skin tone & average muscle tone

Dry skin is due to human aging process (above 40). A high oil contain product is recommend to improve the rough & flaky skin texture, uneven skin tone & poor muscle tone. The pore condition will depend on past indiviual skin condition. Enlarged pores are commonly link with indiviual previous oily skin condition.

Sensitive skin can mirror either enlarge or refine pores condition, reddish skin tone with rough skin texture and muscle tone will depend on the age of the indiviual.

As for Combination skin......This will be cover in my next upload so look out for them
logging off for my beauty SLEEP now : ))